Shoppers are focused on beefing up their fall wardrobe now that summer is ending, but designers in New York already have turned their focus to spring 2014. USA TODAY recaps the weekend highlights from New York Fashion Week.
The inspiration: Exploring the connections between construction and ease and making something with emotion and effortlessness.
The look: A black va-va-voom mermaid gown featured a silky slip top that shimmied down to a red-carpet-worthy train, while a frothy bias-cut dress of the palest sage winked toward a nightie cut. A black embroidered romper dazzled with up-to-there hemlines and sprays of beading.Flirty corsets laced up the back of cropped utility jackets and well-cut trenches, and a tailored cream sheath dress came in need-to-touch suede. The palette was a departure for Wu, replacing his bold red, white and blues with a soft mix of mint, blush and gold against all-business black and navy.
The front row: Alicia Keys, Maria Sharapova and Mad Men star Jessica Paré. — Clark
The inspiration: Photographs of Marilyn Monroe taken right before her death, femininity with an edge
The look: Gurung armed familiar cuts (shirtdresses, halter blouses and tulip jackets) for the future with backs cut into the shapes of harnesses or techy racerbacks. He chose equally futuristic fabrics — bonded technical satin, screen-printed PVC and cellophane georgette.The accessories — pointed-toe slingbacks and a rainbow of colorblocked cat-eye sunglasses — nicely punctuated the forward-thinking collection.
The front row:Girls stars Allison Williams and Zosia Mamet, Ciara, Zachary Quinto — Clark
The inspiration: The designer’s recent trip to Isla Mujeres, Mexico.
The look: Kicky graphic separates woven from raffia had a tropical feel, while raffia patterns also appeared in playful heels from Siriano’s line for Payless. Siriano’s evening wear nodded more subtly toward the island with tropical dahlias blooming from sheaths, trumpet gowns and skirts in soft sandy hues. Gowns with petal appliques or sprays of ostrich feathers had an over-the-top whimsy and romance, perhaps a result of Siriano’s recent engagement to longtime love Brad Walsh.
The front row: Selma Blair, Leigh Lezark — Clark
The inspiration: ’90s streetwear and logo-mania
The look: The bumping ’90s hip-hop soundtrack foreshadowed the collection, all low-slung trousers, boxers as streetwear and overall-inspired leather jumpers. There also was a tongue-in-cheek sheer sweatshirt with a parental advisory label covering the breast area. But the genius branding stole the show. A monochromatic print dress examined closely turned out to be composed entirely of the designer’s name, which also was laser cut in graphic blocky font across waistbands, up the front of jackets and all over a babydoll dress. It was even studded up the side of elbow-length gloves. Only Wang could make a logo look this cool.
The front row: Kanye West, Kerry Washington, Courtney Love — Clark
The inspiration: Geometric shapes and the “merging of boy and girl sensibilities.”
The look: Structured blazers, buttoned-up dress shirts, sporty track jackets and even cropped pants tempered feminine details including a drop-waist peplum, peek-a-boo pleats and pops of sheer chiffon. But Beckham’s most surprising departure laid in her choice of hemline. Known for her midi-length body con dresses, Beckham instead chose flirty mini hems this season. The colors were monochromatic, punctuated by the occasional pop of fuchsia. Sleek Manolo Blahnik stilettos set the tone for her geometric handbags, many of whose angular shapes appeared again on her roomy dress shirts.
The front row: Husband David Beckham, daughter Harper Beckham, Rachel Zoe — Charlotte Steinway
Courtesy of USA Today